Friday, April 29, 2011

Walk Like An Egyptian

On the morning of the 27th April, I awoke to the sweet sounds of Michael Buble on my alarm and was set to face the day. After showering I sorted my pack (again) and Meg and I headed to breakfast. The breakfast looked pretty normal, they call waffles 'pancakes' (nom) and their yoghurt is quite stiff and has an unusual flavour, and a layer of whey on it upon opening. After getting what I felt was enough of a fill we joined the rest of the crew and boarded the Egyptian Lady tour bus and headed to Giza.

I assumed that the pyramids would be some distance away, but they quickly came into view within a few minutes of departing our hotel. How insane to think that people drive past these monstrosities of history each and every day. All that I could do was stare with wonder!

View of the pyramids from the motorway - so close!!
We had an Egyptian tourist Police officer on board all day, complete with his own gun, in order to guarantee our safety. I was expecting a few hundred people to be there, but we were one of about three tours there. It was quite strange being pretty much the only people there. 

We were given our ticket passes for the day and piled out of the bus into the heat.... A nice heat in some ways as it is a dry heat- although it still makes you sweat. I felt pretty OK for the most part, having stocked up on lightweight cotton shirts from Primark before leaving London.

With my ticket in hand (which cost 60 Egyptian Pounds, about £6 or $13NZD) We firstly walked around the perimeter of the Great Pyramid. What a feat of construction! We had been warned about the beggars and gypsies and told to avoid buying trinkets as most are fake. A couple of those on the tour didn't seem to hear that message. I walked around with Meg and we took photos and stared in awe at the monstrous pyramid before us! We were busy taking photos of a smaller pyramid in the distance and were approached by a man in a white uniform covered in badges, a Police officer. He asked where we were from and if he could help with photos. I asked how much. He said 'Nothing, nothing...', I said; 'Nothing?! Really nothing?' He replied; 'Yes.' So we handed over the cameras and he took some great photos of us individually and together. We even got a photo of him and Meg. When we started walking away he asked my name, I said Sarah and he told me it was an Egyptian name. He then said '5 pound- I take good photos for you' and I surprised myself by automatically saying 'I asked you at the start and you said nothing- all our money is with our tour guide. La Shakran" (sorry) and then we walked off. He was grumpy but my white lie was completely believable. It just goes to show though- you can't even trust Policeman in Egypt.

AMAZING!

Tee Hee Hee

After we left the grounds to the Great Pyramid we ventured to the next pyramid location about five minutes drive away. This pyramid we were going inside but paid only half the amount entrance fee do so! 30 Egyptian Pounds, about £3 or $7NZD. Our tour guide didn't join us inside, having been in hundreds of times before. It was cool being able to go inside a Menkaure's pyramid and then right below ground level. This pyramid has only been open for 6 months according to our guide and had recently had everything inside stolen by grave robbers. There seemed to be a little bit of graffiti inside, which is sad especially being it has only been open for six months! There was also absolutely no information about the pyramid printed anywhere to read about it, so we had no idea what the different rooms were used for. I found this disappointing and a little pointless but am hoping I can Google the pyramid later to actually learn about it. We found that everywhere we went there was never any information or signs or anything. I guess I assumed this was their tourist area and there would be information boards to read. Our tour guide has been great but wasn't always nearby to tell us about what we were looking at. At this location I was told I looked like a Spice Girl and Shakira- and a fat, old Egyptian man started rubbing his ring finger and asking if I would marry him. 200 camels was not enough. Turns out wearing wedding/engagement ring doesn't always seem to make a difference.


So heavy!!! Haha

Our last pyramid stop was to Imhotep and Saqqara Pyramids. Again it was a 60 Egyptian Pound entrance fee.  Imhotep is the oldest and first constructed pyramid in Egypt and is 4600 years old. It was built as 'benches' one on top of another, as it was easier at the time to construct it that way, and so ended up resembling steps. Random fact of the day.

Our final stop was to see the Sphinx. It was smaller than I had expected but looked like I knew it would. Amazing. Sad the nose is gone. Allegedly Napoleon blew it off? Not sure about this story. We climbed up to get some better photos and I was called Shakira. Again. And I was also offered 2 million camels... Which I turned down and then stood mighty close to one of the guys on the tour, who quickly got the message and put his arm around me. I got very tired of being harassed and I was dressed conservatively. Grrr. Meg was wearing shorts- never again haha. We were up getting some better shots of the sphinx and sitting on a wall and the next thing we noticed was some Egyptian boys who were filming us and taking our photos. Next thing they were up on the wall next to us having photos taken. Then they started with the touching. Hands on shoulders, touching my back. I was done! I hopped down off the wall with Meg and we tried to get away but they were following us. Even when we draped ourselves on other guys on our tour they didn't seem deterred and were asking the guys 'how much for your wife?'. Things like this are reasons why some would never come to Egypt. The harassment of tourists is particularly bad at the moment because there have been no tourists for three months and even now, when it is starting high season and supposed to be busy, there are hardly any people here. It's bizarre. Its a ghost town. How politics has ruined tourism.


OMG! Look! Mum! I'm riding a camel!!!

I guess today I realised just how poor and third-world Egypt is. The rubbish that lines every street, motorway and river is appalling. It is really, really depressing. I think with 23 million people just in Cairo, and many not being able to get jobs- surely the Government could pay something to clean up the streets? It is so very sad to see all these dilapidated areas... I imagine once upon a time it was a truly beautiful place. The roofs of houses are incomplete, because if you don't finish building a house then you don't have to pay tax on it. Obviously the government haven't cottoned onto this and changed the law to get around this. People also appear to turn their roof-tops into rubbish tips. There is old furniture, rubbish bags etc atop so many buildings. And many buildings have no windows.

There are people everywhere... Although I guess there are 23 million in Cairo alone. That is so hard to comprehend coming from NZ! There seem to be a lot of
people living on the streets, and once again lots of gypsies- one gypsy lady I saw was begging for money at car windows whilst pushing a small sick looking child in a wheelchair. On the motorway. Unbelievable. We passed a school at one point which looked like it had nothing.... the playground was also quite sad looking.

Quackles does Egypt. 

Wow. It is smaller than I thought,  but cool too see it 'in the real' all the same!

Sherbert does Egypt.

The hard thing is to remember not to act too shocked when on a tour such as this, being the driver, tourist policeman and tour-guide all live here and it would be terrible if we offended them. There was a heated moment on the 21 seater bus yesterday. We've all known each other since Turkey, so have been together a week now. Some of the Australian's make really awful jokes about how run down etc Egypt is- which may be said in jest, but also may be taken as an offense. It's like some of the people on this tour don't know when enough is enough. Anyway, a joke was made about the rubbish problem, and another Australian guy turned around (who had not said much on the tour) and reminded the younger Australian's that they are not in Australia anymore and to have some respect. This started some tension- the bus went deadly quiet. But a number of us were in agreement that some of what these people were saying was really offensive and not a joke at all. It is interesting to see what happens when you lump 21 people together who don't know each other. Much like a new classroom gelling in the first few weeks of a term!

We had just one and a half hours to chill out at the hotel before driving to the train station and leaving Cairo, headed for Aswan. I had paid my £54 and upgraded to the sleeper train from the seater one which I was pleased about, as had heard some horror stories about the seater train. I was to share with Meg again which worked out perfectly.

The train approached the platform and I almost felt as if it were a joke... It looked like it could fall to pieces at any moment. We boarded and ended up in hysterics at the sight of our room... It was just arm-widths wide, had three seats and bunk beds inside the wall. It was well below NZ standard but by Egyptian standards, apparently 'quite nice'. Clearly I am not Egyptian and have far higher expectations!

The most luxurious train in the world. Ever. Think Slumdog Millionaire!

Welcome to the Palace. LOL.
Although the bedlinen *looked* clean, I wasn't convinced, so I put one of my singlets on my pillowcase haha! We were told there was food, so even though we had bought some snacks earlier we figured we should at least try the food on offer. 

Or not.

I'm not sure what the meats were- Meg had what looked like lumpy diarrhea and mine was supposed to be fish (I think), the vegetables were wrinkly peas and carrots- vegeyuckables from childhood haha... And there were other miscellaneous items. Meg had what looked like Xmas shortbread cookies. Probably left over from Christmas no doubt.

After taking some photographic evidence of what we wouldn't eat, we pushed it all aside, and continued on with a healthy meal of champions; Pringles, skittles and chocolate bars. Me and my stupid over-sensitive stomach... It has *not* been a happy tummy since leaving London. I think perhaps I really should get a food intolerance test. Feeling this bad for days on end really is no fun.

The train was quite rocky, and literally felt like it could derail at any moment. We decided bed was a good idea- but I didn't sleep. I was terrified as the train literally felt as if it could fall off the tracks. There seemed to be a lot of sudden braking too, which was scary as Meg was on the top bunk and there was no barrier. I was worried she was going to fall out. I started feeling really, really anxious about this ride. Too scared to sleep I started thinking. Perhaps not a great a great idea.

My first thought was comparing this trip to the Jews on their way to a prison camp... With the rockiness of the train... But I also thought they had it far worse of course, with how cramped they were with a bucket to go to the bathroom in and no beds. Clearly I was sleeping in luxury. My other thought was all those movies or news stories I've seen where trains derail. It happens. This was not a great thought. I felt like I was on a roller-coaster and waiting for the next unexpected turn and my stomach was in knots. You may be reading this thinking I'm overreacting or being dramatic... But it really was bad. Meg said this morning that she feels like we're being taken somewhere to be sold.

I text my brother, Chris, (it was his birthday!) about how terrifying the train ride was and he replied saying "Wow! What an adventure!" It was an adventure alright! By midnight I was tired of all the scary sounds of the train so plugged in my headphones and put Buble on shuffle. Something about his voice is calming. I didn't manage to sleep as such, but rested. Buble. I love you.

I woke in the morning to an outstanding view of dust on the window - though if I looked really carefully I could just make out people working in fields. This is a 12 hour train ride, and we still have an hour to go. Our next stop is a 5* hotel (Egyptian 5*) followed by three hours of seeing the Mighty High Dam, which is the worlds largest artificial lake. "Damn it was good." (c) Natasha Jarrott 2011.

Damn we look amazing. L-R: Kylie, Tash, Myself and Meg :)


So, I thankfully survived this dreadful train ride so the will I emailed to Mum before coming on holiday is not yet required. But wasn't I forward thinking? I guess you just never know!

Until more adventures are to be told,

Cheery bye :)

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Lest We Forget

I am currently sitting atop Chunik Bair with over an hour to wait until the NZ service, so it seems the perfect time to begin my blog about my experience in Gallipoli, Turkey. 

Our tour bus left the Novotel in Istanbul at 8am. Well- it was supposed to be 8am- we ended up waiting for a few stragglers which I've learnt is always the way with coach tours! I'm sure that at some point my time will come! Our tour guide, Erkan, has excellent knowledge about his country and WWI- and he spent most of the way to Gelibolu (Gallipoli) imparting knowledge and telling us stories - including the event of his traditional circumcision! (TMI much??)

The bus ride towards Gallipoli didn't feel all that long, with a toilet stop and a stop for lunch at "The Boomerang Cafe" where we enjoyed a Turkish BBQ amongst NZ and Australian themed trinkets. We also had a supermarket stop, where there were about 12 other bus tours stocking up- by the looks of it mostly on squabs and fleece blankets, as well as a supply of snacks for dinner and breakfast. The supermarket looked like it might if people were told to stock up on supplies. Some shelves were empty, some had contents spewing onto the floor. I would imagine that the owners were rubbing their hands together when the tour buses come through!

Cool!

Outside the Boomerang Cafe
We continued on our way and after about five hours we were finally there. We entered the grounds and headed for Anzac cove. When I say Anzac cove, I mean that we joined the queue of other buses already there! Our tour leader felt that because the Turks were not allowing buses up the hill to see Lone Pine and Chunik Bair this year, that he would ask the driver to take us to more shops. 

We turned around but by the time we all understood what was going on we all agreed that we would rather wait in line! We went back and secured a spot for the bus in what looked like the first line of buses to head up the hill. We were bus number 32 of 398 that entered the grounds. By now it was 3.15pm and apparently the grounds would not be open until 6pm but we were asked to stay close by just in case. There is a museum on top of a small hill which we decided to climb up- I say climb because the incline to actually get up there was about 75 degrees! We had a look around up there for a short time when we heard someone shout out "Quick!! The bus is leaving!" so we all gapped it down the hill again- all holding hands because of the terrifying gradient of it... What a sight it would have been had we all fallen down the hill!

We piled onto the bus and it started the climb... but we realised there were two people missing - a young guy jumped off and went and found them- they were climbing on as the bus was crawling along! Finally we were all on and set to go. 

The incline was steep and slow, we stopped off to have a look at Lone Pine (The Australian memorial) and took some photos and got back on the bus to continue on to Chunik Bair (The New Zealand memorial) although encountered a traffic jam not far after Lone Pine, next to a trench which was great for photo opportunities. The traffic jam stretched as far as the eye could see and after a small discussion between the tour guide and tour members we all agreed that we would prefer to leg it to Anzac Cove rather than wait in the traffic jam.

Lone Pine. Note: The lone pine on the right ;)

Ridiculous traffic jam...

The walk down from Lone Pine to Anzac Cove. I don't know those people haha
The walk was downhill and parts were quite uneven and rugged- but with amazing views. It took us about 45 minutes to an hour of walking and we finally reached the entrance which was full of airport-like metal detectors complete with Turkish army officers with metal detecting wands. They really did check every single bag- for everyones safety and security, so whilst it held things up briefly it was really very well worth it. We had been walking for about 20 minutes when I realised that my warm down coat was still on the bus. Too late. I was lucky I had four other layers plus a sleeping bag as we had been told that the overnight low chill factor was to be about minus two degrees.


Amazing views!

I was with Meg, who had been my roomie in Istanbul, and two Australian girls I had met; Tash and Kylie. On entering the grounds we received our free goodie bag (which consisted of a beanie, programmes in both Turkish and English, information booklet, commemorative pin and postcard) as well as a fluro orange wristband with a number printed on; mine being 01052. 

We managed to locate an excellent spot- in the second bay, or the one on the right hand side looking at the ocean, right in the middle, near the back. We unpacked our sleeping mats and bags, and secured our space for the night. Mel and Craig had not arrived yet but we had enough space for them- just not the other two people that they were with on their bus. 

Mel ended up calling me to ask where we were and if there was space just for she and Craig- which there was! They came and found us and set up their posse also. We were now settled into the night. The area was quite large, and had two huge fenced off grassed sections as well as plastic grandstand seating. We were sitting in the right band bay, in the middle, near the back if you were looking out to sea. I kept catching myself remembering where I was... I was actually in Gallipoli- and I was about to brave a night outside, sleeping under the stars. It was like a "pinch me or it isn't true" moment. 

Our view - not bad at all :)

Craig, Mel and I


Proud much?? Yes I am!


Once it was dark, people were well and truly settled in and had eaten their fill of foreign supermarket snacks. It started to look like a patchwork quilt of sleeping bags, as people were now snuggling down into their sleeping bags for warmth. I was expecting to entertain myself for a bit and then sleep- so it was quite unexpected that a whole programme had been prepared for us starting with an introduction by a man who I think said he was a Reverend for the Royal NZ Airforce. 

See what I mean about a 'patchwork' of sleeping bags?!

It began with a performance by the RAAF and RNZAF bands who played a medley of songs for the first world war era. Think of songs like: "It's a long way to tipererary", "Pack up your troubles" and so on. I knew most of the words to the songs which was quite random! I thank mum for that! There were then several documentaries shown on huge screens; one about the experiences of the soldiers, the story of Gallipoli told through the soldiers great-great grand children and other excellent short documentaries. These made time pass so quickly! At midnight we were wished a Happy Anzac day and viewed messages from Julia Gillard and John Key- as well as the Turkish Prime Minister- Recep Tayyip Erdogan. John Key spoke particularly well I thought. It was a shame he was unable to be at Anzac Cove for the event- although with an invitation to the Royal Wedding it must have been hard to choose between the two ;)


At 1.40am one part to the symphony being written for the 100th Anniversary in 2015 was played. In 2005 the first part to the symphony was composed and performed. These movements are all written by leading NZ, Australian and Turkish composers. (obviously this all interests me very much!!). In 2015 the symphony will be performed in its entirety- which will be quite long, given the one performed last night entitled; "Invasion" was 16 minutes in duration. It did make me think of Ryan Youens, whom I went to school with. He is a composer in Auckland and has written some fabulous works. Perhaps writing a piece for Gallipoli at some point might be on the cards for him! There was another performance at 3am by the Airforce bands- by this point it was *really* cold!! I was impressed that they were able to keep their instruments warm enough to play so well in tune. They sounded excellent.

It was shortly before this that Mel woke me properly to ask if I wanted to come with her to the toilets- which I did. I asked her a question but referred to her as Leanne (her sister who I know back in NZ). I must have down this three or four times.... The only thing that made me feel better was her fiancee, Craig, telling me that her father mixes them up all the time. I am putting it down to lack of sleep and just coming out of a deep sleep! When we were back from the toilets we had a random 3am in-depth conversation about laser eye surgery- the benefits and potential dangers. A little random and heavy going for 3am!!! Craig peacefully slept on- he was certainly getting his 6 hour sleep time!

I was really impressed with these porta-loos. They were even emptied during the night!

That's my 3am smile...
At 5.30am on the dot the dawn service commenced. Everyone was woken by the man leading the evening and then people started waking each other. The VIPs were seated, and the latest touring buses (who I assume spent most of their evening at a local hotel) had arrived. It was one of the most atmospheric and haunting moments of my life.


Dawn... 




To think that right where we were sitting and later standing, was where those boats came ashore, and all those boot steps marched or ran up the hill, dodging bullets, woolen uniforms soaking wet from jumping out of the boats... it was quite surreal. I couldn't believe I was there. How I wished that my Dad was there too. 
We sang "The Lord's my Shepherd" which was an ok choice- although projecting the words up on the big screen would have made it more successful as it was too dark to read the words in the programme and I only knew three verses...Which evidently was three more than most! So I sang what I knew and hummed the rest. 

I felt so proud to be a New Zealander as I sang the NZ National Anthem, standing in my sleeping bag and surrounded by others from my part of the world. I felt sad for those Kiwi's and Australians who either felt they couldn't sing or felt too ashamed sing. There was no reason not to know the words as they were printed in the programme. I found this quite disappointing. Here we all were, standing on the banks at Anzac cove where all those fellow country-men fell- and some couldn't even muster an anthem. I am pleased I sang it proudly- although quietly as I felt like the only one! I wore a NZ flag on my back which belongs to my Dad, posted over to the UK by my Mum. 

After the ceremony finished, we discussed when we would aim to leave Anzac Cove and head up the hill, 6.2km to Chunik Bair which was where the NZ service was to be held at 12.30pm. We left at about 8am after toileting, taking photos in the area and eating a supermarket snack breakfast. We took the obligatory Anzac Cove Photos, although I have to say a small part of me wished the wreaths had been laid slightly to either side of the words Anzac Cove- but that's life! 



Kinda wish the wreaths weren't in the way... but it says ANZAC COVE under there!! OMG I have been there!

Mel, Craig, Meg and I then commenced the big walk. And what a walk it was. We first stopped off at Ari Burnu Cemetery and took a few photos- and walked along the beach- where the stones lay... Very familiar stones to me as they looked very much like the ones Dad arranged to have shipped to NZ to construct the Cairn at Auckland Domain. I walked along a little further than the others- thinking about how small the beach seemed width ways- and how difficult to walk on in trainers. It was uneven due to the stones all shapes and sizes and my footing seemed to slip a lot- it was hard going. I cannot imagine how difficult it was for the soldiers to run on with guns and heavy packs.

Familiar looking stones...
The beach at Ari Burnu Point
We walked 6.2km, which is a relatively long way. We reached Lone Pine and continued on for another 3.2km to Chunik Bair- stopping only to see cemeteries and take photos. We wanted to get to the site to secure somewhere to sit. The last Kilometere or so up to Chunik Bair was quite steep. I was exhausted- lack of sleep, aching back and hips ... What kept me going was the idea that the soldiers walked up this far too- but they didn't have the added luxury of a tar sealed road- they climbed up through the rugged terrain- often losing their way. There wasn't far to go now... we were nearly there!


Looking out from Quinns Post. Such stunning views of the Aegean Sea.


With the end in sight I felt a sense of relief - complete with aching body and chapped lips I continued on and we approached some gates but were told that there were no seats left- we'd have to sit on the memorial bank. The 'grand stand' type area which had been set up was not only tiny in comparison to the Australian one, but half of the seats were reserved for VIPs. We had just walked for 6.2km to sit once again on a bank. I can appreciate VIPs need seats- but *half* of the NZ allocation?! We were so sure we would get a seat being it had only just gone 10am and the service was not until 12.30pm. We didn't make a fuss about it and found a posse on the memorial bank and waited. To kill time I had a nap...and started this blog! 

Something about this photo I *love*


More sleeping bags were out on the hill at Chunik Bair... it was FREEZING!~

Finally 12.30pm arrived and the service began. We had a huge screen projecting what was happening, although it was disappointing that we were unable to hear what was being said unless there was no wind. Which wasn't often. A large group of Australians had come in at the last minute, having finished their service, and were sitting not far from us. I thought it was nice they made it to both ceremonies. Unfortunately they didn't seem at all interested in the service and talked all the way through ours which made me quite angry. They had been to theirs- every single person at Lone Pine evidently had a seat. And here they were, talking though our service which we were struggling to hear. When they talked through the laying of the wreaths and prayers that followed I felt so angry that they were that disrespectful that I was forcing back tears. I had traveled a long way to be here for this experience- and I wanted to really enjoy it. 

Given I was tired, I didn't say anything to them as I was afraid what might have come out- but I was pleased some other Kiwi's spoke up. It was National Anthem time again and I had decided that I was going to sing it loud and proud, whether others chose to or not. Once again it was quiet- such a shame that people don't feel confident enough to belt out their anthem with pride- as a matter of respect to all those soldiers that fell for us. The service concluded, and whilst I felt small sense of disappointment that it felt like so many attended this event for 'something to do' and not because they had a genuine interest, family links or felt a sense of patriotism, I had to remember that I have been brought up on all this. I have a very good understanding of the meaning of Anzac day. I've marched as a Brownie, Girl Guide and Ranger and now every year I watch my father with pride as he marches in his uniform. I'm very fortunate to really understand the true meaning of Anzac day. 

"They shall not grow old, as we that are left grow old. Age shall not weary them, 'nor the years condemn. At the going down of the sun and in the morning, we will remember them."

Happy Anzac day... I hope everyone managed to get to a service to remember all those boys and men who fell for us. If you didn't manage to get to one- I hope at least a small thought was spared for them.


Cheery bye :)

Lest We Forget...




When in Turkey, go to the Turkish Bath!


Yesterday morning (21st April) I awoke to the sun streaming onto my face... the weather was AMAZING. The sun was shining, bold blue sky and no clouds in sight. I stayed in bed for as long as I could bear (it was so hot!) then got up for my cold morning shower (there is never any hot water in the morning!) and went up to the rooftop of the hostel for breakfast - and what an amazing spread it was. It is included in the price of our hostel, which is fantastic! Cheeses and bread, salad and fruit. The view was stunning; it is hard to believe this is the view for some people every day. I noticed that Jess, an Emergency Nurse from Australia, was sitting alone so I decided to join her. What a good move that was - we ended up spending the day together. We were to be going to the Hamam (Turkish Bath) with a group of girls at 11am, so decided being it was only 9am we would go for a walk as we could see how close the ocean was to our hostel.


We ventured downhill and were met with the best sight - dolphins! I love seeing dolphins in their natural habitat. Apparently these are the baby dolphins and are really common at this time of the year. We walked from our hostel in Sultanhamet to Kabatas, which is a fairly decent walk. The walk along the path reminded me of Mission Bay. We made it back to the hostel at about 10.45am to find a note from the girls saying that they decided to make the most of the weather and go to the Hamam at 4pm instead. Jess was unable to do that as was attending a Turkish cooking class (wish I had thought to look into that before coming, what an awesome idea, but all the spaces were booked) and couldn't go that late - so I suggested we just go now. 

I was terrified to be perfectly honest. The thought of walking around in the nude with a bunch of other women did not thrill me... but hey - when in Turkey...have a Turkish Bath! We arrived at Cemberlitas Hamami, which is a Historical Turkish Bath about a five-minute walk from our hostel, built in 1584. It is hard to comprehend walking into a building that has been there for that long, let alone a building with a huge marble slab in the centre that has also been there for that long. Incredible. We arrived and paid our 99TL (about $70NZD) and were given a token for a bath and an oil massage, a traditional Turkish wrap and a small bag with black bikini bottoms inside. We walked through some double doors and it was all on! (or off, depending how you look at it)

Off with the clothes and on with the bikini bottoms and wrap. We locked up our things and went through some more huge doors to where a huge centre slab of marble was. A large Turkish woman walked towards me and took off my wrap (not allowing me time to even think twice) and lay the wrap on the slab and gestured for me to lie down. So I did. With Jess who I had only met that morning and a bunch of other women. This is an outstanding way to get to know new friends intimately. I got over being topless about 5 seconds after I lay down to be perfectly honest. 


I lay on the stone which was warm, and sweated (I mean delicately opened my pores and prepared me for scrubbing) for about twenty minutes, and when I was really comfortable and almost asleep, the Turkish woman poked me gently on the arm and told me to get up. She then poured warm water over my body (mmmmm) and took what looked like a pillowcase out of a bucket. She opened the pillowcase to catch some air inside and it produced soap suds - LOTS of soap suds. Cool trick! She then lathered me up and scrubbed me all over. It was the most amazing experience, I tell you!! I found that I am INCREDIBLY ticklish on my décolletage... I couldn't help giggling. She then poured water over me again and had me stand and go over to a marble water bath where she had me sit, whist she washed my hair. How I love having my hair washed... made me think of when Mum used to do it for me alllllll those years ago. I just needed Dad to 'Huminaa' me at the end... (dry my hair vigorously as he would chant a huminaa song.... haha. All my siblings will know what this is hehehe). I then went into the Jacuzzi for another twenty minutes before it was time for my 30-minute oil massage. AMAZING. By now I had pretty much forgotten I was only wearing briefs!  

By the time I came out of the Turkish Bath I felt incredible... my skin was soft from the scrub and oil massage and my muscles nicely unknotted. The best 99TL I have spent since arriving and I would ABSOLUTELY recommend it to anyone who comes. Jess and I were then ravenous so we went in search of food and found 4TL kebabs. That is about $3.50NZD. OM NOM. OM NOM NOM NOM it was. We also had freshly squeezed pomegranate juice (they are plentiful here) so got an excellent antioxidant injection! We wandered deeper into the heart of Istanbul and found the Spice Bazaar (market), which was just incredible. The only problem with it was the Turkish men who yell out ‘Aussie’ or ‘Kiwi’ and use the most appallingly dreadful pickup lines… like:
“Hey beautiful… you dropped something…my heart”
or
“Honey, come and spend you money, for some honey with me, you can be my honey”
and
“Did you fall from the sky? You are like an angel”

Insane. Really. You learn to hold your head up and walk on! We walked right through and came out on the other side at this amazing Mosque, so we decided to go in. There were hundreds of people praying, and I wondered if they find it offensive that people (tourists) walk in and take photos etc… hmmm. We left there and I found 10TL at the bottom of the stairs, which Jess and I decided could pay for our afternoon tea. We went back to the Spice Bazaar, spent 36TL on Turkish delight and Baklava in many flavours and went in search of some apple tea. We found a really nice restaurant near our hostel and order Turkish coffee… we were feeling brave. It was actually really very nice!

Jess needed the bathroom so asked if they had one at the restaurant, and the waiter shook his head and pointed her in the direction up the road. Once she went on her merry way the waiter was talking and laughing and pointing to her with his friends, so I was wondering where he had really sent her. He came closer to my table and turned to me and said he was playing a joke on her. I was like, what? Why would a waiter do that to a customer? Jess came back after being harassed by an old man for entering his shop – and I told our waiter he owed her a free coffee. So he showed her the bathroom in the restaurant and gave us the free coffee… I think he felt bad realising his joke was actually not very funny at all.





We made it back to our hostel in time to see the rest of the group go off to their Turkish Bath experience, and Jess to get organised for her cooking class and I have been typing my blog and organising photos, because everyone else is out. Except Heidi, who arrived today in my room – another new friend who is doing the same tour as me, with her cousin who is due to arrive this evening – YAY!! I already met a travel buddy and she said I’m more than welcome to hang with them. Stoked. And she lives in East London, bonus.



On an annoying note, Cameron and I have to move from Lyham Road on the 11th of May because the landlord can no longer fund tenants, whatever that means. So Cam is on the job – looking for a new place of residence. I knew this would happen sooner or later, but a little annoying. Cam reckons a curve ball has been thrown our way for a good reason – I love his optimism!! I will inform of the new address when I know what it is!

Today is the 22nd, and the day my tour actually commences, at 7pm this evening. I am quite excited about it all beginning and having a large bunch of people doing the same thing together to hang out with. Traveling alone is not the most enjoyable experience J After all… life is made for sharing!

Oh, and Mum: I bought a Turkish ‘evil eye’ bracelet today, which wards off evil. So I will be totally safe now. It is like a Power Ranger ring but way cooler. LOL.

Until next time…
Cheery bye :)

Istanbul, not Constantinople


 I woke early to get to the airport on Tuesday. This is my first plane trip alone and I didn't want to feel stressed if I couldn't find something- so I allowed plenty of time! I left my flat in Brixton at 7am and was quite apprehensive about the two trains I was going to have catch. Not because I had to catch two trains, more so because I had to catch two trains, with my 15kg backpack which was nearly bigger than me in size, and my front pack, about 6kg. It turns out that it is terrifying stepping onto an escalator or walking downstairs when you can't see your toes!


The trains were empty as- another reason I was thankful that I left early. I arrived at the airport at 8:20am and checked in... So far so good. Turns out it is easy to do things like checking in, by yourself. I then had some time to kill. I got some breakfast and then found somewhere to sit and people watch. I love people watching. At 10:20am it was time to head to my departure lounge. I like people watching as much as the next person - but I do so without being blatantly obvious. Much unlike the two women opposite me in the lounge who stared at me and talked to each other in a foreign language. Potentially Turkish. I wonder what they were saying. 

On the flight I sat next to a well groomed man who was probably late forties to early fifties. He had his Sudoku book so seemed entertained enough and I was relieved he didn't want to engage in too much conversation as I had already picked the movies I wanted to see. I ended up watching something with Katherine Heigl where her best friends die and leave their baby girl to her and a guy she can't stand. And I cried. A lot. Not a good movie choice for a plane ride haha. When it came time for food, (which was really nice by plane standards! I had a chicken kebab) I paused my movie and took out my headphones. 

The man next to me turned and asked "So, are you passing through Istanbul or is it your final destination?"
I explained I was joining a tour, seeing some of Istanbul, Gallipoli and then onto Cairo and Giza in Egypt. He started talking about the war history of Gallipoli and seemed impressed I was interested in going. I then felt it only polite to ask if he was passing through. This is where the conversation got *really* interesting and I forgot about my movie! 

He explained how he was going on a tour of duty for the American Army. He is a Colonel- and on his way to Kurdistan. So here I was, sitting next to a Colonel who works for the US Army. This explained the haircut and bolt upright posture. 

He told me so many interesting stories - and of course me being my nosy self ended up asked loads of questions which he was happy to answer. He is 49, joined the army when he was 15. Is going to the Pentagon (What? Now this is sounding like a movie... I sat next to someone who attends important military meetings WITH the American president often there at the Pentagon!!) in three months once he is released from duty. And he is retiring from the service July 1st. 

I asked if there is some sort of huge ceremony when you retire and he explained there was, but he prefers the ten days of parties... A cigar and cognac evening, golfing day etc. Sounds like a blast! He said also he will be required to hand in his badge, being he has relatively full access to some highly restricted areas in the Pentagon. It all sounded a bit unreal. But incredibly interesting. He has served all over the world, although when he signed his contract he agreed that he would not enter countries such as Russia whilst he is serving. I asked why- he said he is a high risk for capture! Unreal. He is looking forward to going to places he has never been before. Wow. 

Anyway, he gave me some "travel safe in Turkey and Egypt" tips and wished me well. It turned out he was thoroughly worth sitting next to!! It was at the point of exiting the plane and passing through customs that I wished I had packed my glasses in my hand luggage. I kid you not- I couldn't read the sign that told you where to get your planes luggage. So there were 14 luggage carousels. And I made it to carousel number 12 before I found my flight number- whoops!!!! 

After finally getting my hands on my luggage I realised I needed to now work out what to do next. I needed to locate my hostel which according to the Internet was a 30 minute taxi ride. I was not paying for a taxi- so I ventured to the metro to see if I could work it out. A true backpacker heh heh. Thankfully having lived in London and mastered the underground, working out how to get to Karbatas on the Istanbul metro to where I'd need the tram was easy. I had to buy little red plastic tokens (you know the kind- like the ones for the games at "Time Out" haha!) which cost 1.75TL, about the same in NZD (a little less, say it cost about $1.50 per token). I got onto the metro, managed to exit at the right place after witnessing some fisticuffs between a drunk and a Policeman, and followed the signs to the tram. Which brought me to a bus stop. Where the eff was the tram?!

Looking around I was approached by an older Turkish man. I was pretty cautious- but at the same time I was carrying what felt like half my bodyweight and was getting tired. I figured if he wanted money for giving me directions he could have what change was in my pocket. 1 Turkish lira! He insisted on not only pointing the way, but escorting me there. OMG. Panic set in. He was going to want money!! I followed him despite my paranoia he was going to ask for the shirt off my back. When I found where I was going, I thanked him and apologised for not having any money for him (I did- but I didn't want to part with it!). He said he was sorry I misunderstood but he didn't want any money. Hooray! My faith in humanity was restored. 

Once on the tram I had to work out how many stops to mine- and managed to hop off at the correct one!! Bonus! I knew there was a walk to my hostel from the tram- so I decided to go sit on a park bench nearby. I was then approached by another older man (am I sensing a pattern here?!) and he asked if I was lost and if he could help. By this stage I was just shattered so took his offer. He did take me to my hostel- but first took me to his family Turkish rug shop where he had an assistant make me some apple tea. I was terrified. I declined the tea, being petrified they might have drugged it. Paranoid much? When traveling alone - TRUST NOBODY! Eek. The man urging me to try it scared me even more, so I said I was allergic to apples. One of his assistants then tried to sell me a rug (yeah- just what every backpacker needs!) by which stage I'd had enough so stood up to leave. He obliged and kept his word and walked me to my hostel which was about ten minutes from the tram. Anyway, long story short, he also took me to a great kebab place for dinner and then bought me back to my hostel afterwards. A relief really as I didn't know what or where to eat. He asked me at one point if I had a boyfriend, so I said I was married. (I had put my engagement and wedding ring on my left hand when I stepped off the plane haha!) and he was shocked - he said I was far too young. Another person who thinks I am 22. Points to me. Yusss. He said how lucky my husband was and how silly he was to let me out of his sight in Istanbul. I promised to tell 'my husband' how lucky he was. LOL. 

I fell into bed. Sort of. I actually climbed to the top bunk (I think the last time I slept on a top bunk was when we lived at Carlisle Road as a child!) and slept quite quickly. I woke this morning to the pouring rain outside....lame. I had a freezing cold shower (I have since learnt that I need to shower at night, not in the morning, if I want any heat in it) and ventured out into Istanbul City. I made a concious decision not to buy a map and get lost in Istanbul for fun........ 

.......well that's the story I am telling, and I am sticking with it! I actually spent most of today on the tram. Up and down I went, looking for how to get to Taksim Square which is where there are lots of shops etc. It sounded like a good place to kill a day. Finding it was not so easy. I eventually (about 2 hours later haha!) found it, and had a walk up and down the shopping street. I bought a trinkety decoration that I figured could pass as a christmas decoration and also got some Turkish Delight... in many flavours, om nom nom! I had lunch somewhere that looked clean and used their bathroom. I have gotten quite smart now, and if I need a bathroom, instead of using a disgusting public one, I go and eat or drink somewhere and use their facilities. Outstanding travel tip. After about eight hours out and about I decided (or my legs decided) it was time to go back to the hostel and chillax. My real tour starts on the 22nd and it will be full on from then until I go back to London, so the next few days are chill time I have decided.


My hostel is nice enough, but I have decided I am getting 'over' the whole hostel thing. I want my own room and my own bathroom. I don't desperately enjoy sharing with five others, it has to be said. especially not on a top bunk! I am quite stoked I am only sharing with one other in a four-five star hotel once the tour starts.

Bring. It. On. Sarah-iously!

Now I am at my hostel again, and about to upload some photos from the day. Tomorrow I think I'll go to Asia. Why?? Because I can.



Cheery bye :)