Lest We Forget

I am currently sitting atop Chunik Bair with over an hour to wait until the NZ service, so it seems the perfect time to begin my blog about my experience in Gallipoli, Turkey. 

Our tour bus left the Novotel in Istanbul at 8am. Well- it was supposed to be 8am- we ended up waiting for a few stragglers which I've learnt is always the way with coach tours! I'm sure that at some point my time will come! Our tour guide, Erkan, has excellent knowledge about his country and WWI- and he spent most of the way to Gelibolu (Gallipoli) imparting knowledge and telling us stories - including the event of his traditional circumcision! (TMI much??)

The bus ride towards Gallipoli didn't feel all that long, with a toilet stop and a stop for lunch at "The Boomerang Cafe" where we enjoyed a Turkish BBQ amongst NZ and Australian themed trinkets. We also had a supermarket stop, where there were about 12 other bus tours stocking up- by the looks of it mostly on squabs and fleece blankets, as well as a supply of snacks for dinner and breakfast. The supermarket looked like it might if people were told to stock up on supplies. Some shelves were empty, some had contents spewing onto the floor. I would imagine that the owners were rubbing their hands together when the tour buses come through!

Cool!

Outside the Boomerang Cafe

We continued on our way and after about five hours we were finally there. We entered the grounds and headed for Anzac cove. When I say Anzac cove, I mean that we joined the queue of other buses already there! Our tour leader felt that because the Turks were not allowing buses up the hill to see Lone Pine and Chunik Bair this year, that he would ask the driver to take us to more shops. 

We turned around but by the time we all understood what was going on we all agreed that we would rather wait in line! We went back and secured a spot for the bus in what looked like the first line of buses to head up the hill. We were bus number 32 of 398 that entered the grounds. By now it was 3.15pm and apparently the grounds would not be open until 6pm but we were asked to stay close by just in case. There is a museum on top of a small hill which we decided to climb up- I say climb because the incline to actually get up there was about 75 degrees! We had a look around up there for a short time when we heard someone shout out "Quick!! The bus is leaving!" so we all gapped it down the hill again- all holding hands because of the terrifying gradient of it... What a sight it would have been had we all fallen down the hill!

We piled onto the bus and it started the climb... but we realised there were two people missing - a young guy jumped off and went and found them- they were climbing on as the bus was crawling along! Finally we were all on and set to go. 

The incline was steep and slow, we stopped off to have a look at Lone Pine (The Australian memorial) and took some photos and got back on the bus to continue on to Chunik Bair (The New Zealand memorial) although encountered a traffic jam not far after Lone Pine, next to a trench which was great for photo opportunities. The traffic jam stretched as far as the eye could see and after a small discussion between the tour guide and tour members we all agreed that we would prefer to leg it to Anzac Cove rather than wait in the traffic jam.

Lone Pine. Note: The lone pine on the right ;)

Ridiculous traffic jam...

The walk down from Lone Pine to Anzac Cove. I don't know those people haha

The walk was downhill and parts were quite uneven and rugged- but with amazing views. It took us about 45 minutes to an hour of walking and we finally reached the entrance which was full of airport-like metal detectors complete with Turkish army officers with metal detecting wands. They really did check every single bag- for everyones safety and security, so whilst it held things up briefly it was really very well worth it. We had been walking for about 20 minutes when I realised that my warm down coat was still on the bus. Too late. I was lucky I had four other layers plus a sleeping bag as we had been told that the overnight low chill factor was to be about minus two degrees.

Amazing views!

I was with Meg, who had been my roomie in Istanbul, and two Australian girls I had met; Tash and Kylie. On entering the grounds we received our free goodie bag (which consisted of a beanie, programmes in both Turkish and English, information booklet, commemorative pin and postcard) as well as a fluro orange wristband with a number printed on; mine being 01052. 

We managed to locate an excellent spot- in the second bay, or the one on the right hand side looking at the ocean, right in the middle, near the back. We unpacked our sleeping mats and bags, and secured our space for the night. Mel and Craig had not arrived yet but we had enough space for them- just not the other two people that they were with on their bus. 

Mel ended up calling me to ask where we were and if there was space just for she and Craig- which there was! They came and found us and set up their posse also. We were now settled into the night. The area was quite large, and had two huge fenced off grassed sections as well as plastic grandstand seating. We were sitting in the right band bay, in the middle, near the back if you were looking out to sea. I kept catching myself remembering where I was... I was actually in Gallipoli- and I was about to brave a night outside, sleeping under the stars. It was like a "pinch me or it isn't true" moment. 

Our view - not bad at all :)

Craig, Mel and I

Proud much?? Yes I am!

Once it was dark, people were well and truly settled in and had eaten their fill of foreign supermarket snacks. It started to look like a patchwork quilt of sleeping bags, as people were now snuggling down into their sleeping bags for warmth. I was expecting to entertain myself for a bit and then sleep- so it was quite unexpected that a whole programme had been prepared for us starting with an introduction by a man who I think said he was a Reverend for the Royal NZ Airforce. 

See what I mean about a 'patchwork' of sleeping bags?!

It began with a performance by the RAAF and RNZAF bands who played a medley of songs for the first world war era. Think of songs like: "It's a long way to tipererary", "Pack up your troubles" and so on. I knew most of the words to the songs which was quite random! I thank mum for that! There were then several documentaries shown on huge screens; one about the experiences of the soldiers, the story of Gallipoli told through the soldiers great-great grand children and other excellent short documentaries. These made time pass so quickly! At midnight we were wished a Happy Anzac day and viewed messages from Julia Gillard and John Key- as well as the Turkish Prime Minister- Recep Tayyip Erdogan. John Key spoke particularly well I thought. It was a shame he was unable to be at Anzac Cove for the event- although with an invitation to the Royal Wedding it must have been hard to choose between the two ;)

At 1.40am one part to the symphony being written for the 100th Anniversary in 2015 was played. In 2005 the first part to the symphony was composed and performed. These movements are all written by leading NZ, Australian and Turkish composers. (obviously this all interests me very much!!). In 2015 the symphony will be performed in its entirety- which will be quite long, given the one performed last night entitled; "Invasion" was 16 minutes in duration. It did make me think of Ryan Youens, whom I went to school with. He is a composer in Auckland and has written some fabulous works. Perhaps writing a piece for Gallipoli at some point might be on the cards for him! There was another performance at 3am by the Airforce bands- by this point it was *really* cold!! I was impressed that they were able to keep their instruments warm enough to play so well in tune. They sounded excellent.

It was shortly before this that Mel woke me properly to ask if I wanted to come with her to the toilets- which I did. I asked her a question but referred to her as Leanne (her sister who I know back in NZ). I must have down this three or four times.... The only thing that made me feel better was her fiancee, Craig, telling me that her father mixes them up all the time. I am putting it down to lack of sleep and just coming out of a deep sleep! When we were back from the toilets we had a random 3am in-depth conversation about laser eye surgery- the benefits and potential dangers. A little random and heavy going for 3am!!! Craig peacefully slept on- he was certainly getting his 6 hour sleep time!

I was really impressed with these porta-loos. They were even emptied during the night!

That's my 3am smile...

At 5.30am on the dot the dawn service commenced. Everyone was woken by the man leading the evening and then people started waking each other. The VIPs were seated, and the latest touring buses (who I assume spent most of their evening at a local hotel) had arrived. It was one of the most atmospheric and haunting moments of my life.

Dawn... 

To think that right where we were sitting and later standing, was where those boats came ashore, and all those boot steps marched or ran up the hill, dodging bullets, woolen uniforms soaking wet from jumping out of the boats... it was quite surreal. I couldn't believe I was there. How I wished that my Dad was there too. 

We sang "The Lord's my Shepherd" which was an ok choice- although projecting the words up on the big screen would have made it more successful as it was too dark to read the words in the programme and I only knew three verses...Which evidently was three more than most! So I sang what I knew and hummed the rest. 

I felt so proud to be a New Zealander as I sang the NZ National Anthem, standing in my sleeping bag and surrounded by others from my part of the world. I felt sad for those Kiwi's and Australians who either felt they couldn't sing or felt too ashamed sing. There was no reason not to know the words as they were printed in the programme. I found this quite disappointing. Here we all were, standing on the banks at Anzac cove where all those fellow country-men fell- and some couldn't even muster an anthem. I am pleased I sang it proudly- although quietly as I felt like the only one! I wore a NZ flag on my back which belongs to my Dad, posted over to the UK by my Mum. 

After the ceremony finished, we discussed when we would aim to leave Anzac Cove and head up the hill, 6.2km to Chunik Bair which was where the NZ service was to be held at 12.30pm. We left at about 8am after toileting, taking photos in the area and eating a supermarket snack breakfast. We took the obligatory Anzac Cove Photos, although I have to say a small part of me wished the wreaths had been laid slightly to either side of the words Anzac Cove- but that's life! 

Kinda wish the wreaths weren't in the way... but it says ANZAC COVE under there!! OMG I have been there!

Mel, Craig, Meg and I then commenced the big walk. And what a walk it was. We first stopped off at Ari Burnu Cemetery and took a few photos- and walked along the beach- where the stones lay... Very familiar stones to me as they looked very much like the ones Dad arranged to have shipped to NZ to construct the Cairn at Auckland Domain. I walked along a little further than the others- thinking about how small the beach seemed width ways- and how difficult to walk on in trainers. It was uneven due to the stones all shapes and sizes and my footing seemed to slip a lot- it was hard going. I cannot imagine how difficult it was for the soldiers to run on with guns and heavy packs.

Familiar looking stones...

The beach at Ari Burnu Point

We walked 6.2km, which is a relatively long way. We reached Lone Pine and continued on for another 3.2km to Chunik Bair- stopping only to see cemeteries and take photos. We wanted to get to the site to secure somewhere to sit. The last Kilometere or so up to Chunik Bair was quite steep. I was exhausted- lack of sleep, aching back and hips ... What kept me going was the idea that the soldiers walked up this far too- but they didn't have the added luxury of a tar sealed road- they climbed up through the rugged terrain- often losing their way. There wasn't far to go now... we were nearly there!

Looking out from Quinns Post. Such stunning views of the Aegean Sea.

With the end in sight I felt a sense of relief - complete with aching body and chapped lips I continued on and we approached some gates but were told that there were no seats left- we'd have to sit on the memorial bank. The 'grand stand' type area which had been set up was not only tiny in comparison to the Australian one, but half of the seats were reserved for VIPs. We had just walked for 6.2km to sit once again on a bank. I can appreciate VIPs need seats- but *half* of the NZ allocation?! We were so sure we would get a seat being it had only just gone 10am and the service was not until 12.30pm. We didn't make a fuss about it and found a posse on the memorial bank and waited. To kill time I had a nap...and started this blog! 

Something about this photo I *love*

More sleeping bags were out on the hill at Chunik Bair... it was FREEZING!~

Finally 12.30pm arrived and the service began. We had a huge screen projecting what was happening, although it was disappointing that we were unable to hear what was being said unless there was no wind. Which wasn't often. A large group of Australians had come in at the last minute, having finished their service, and were sitting not far from us. I thought it was nice they made it to both ceremonies. Unfortunately they didn't seem at all interested in the service and talked all the way through ours which made me quite angry. They had been to theirs- every single person at Lone Pine evidently had a seat. And here they were, talking though our service which we were struggling to hear. When they talked through the laying of the wreaths and prayers that followed I felt so angry that they were that disrespectful that I was forcing back tears. I had traveled a long way to be here for this experience- and I wanted to really enjoy it. 

Given I was tired, I didn't say anything to them as I was afraid what might have come out- but I was pleased some other Kiwi's spoke up. It was National Anthem time again and I had decided that I was going to sing it loud and proud, whether others chose to or not. Once again it was quiet- such a shame that people don't feel confident enough to belt out their anthem with pride- as a matter of respect to all those soldiers that fell for us. The service concluded, and whilst I felt small sense of disappointment that it felt like so many attended this event for 'something to do' and not because they had a genuine interest, family links or felt a sense of patriotism, I had to remember that I have been brought up on all this. I have a very good understanding of the meaning of Anzac day. I've marched as a Brownie, Girl Guide and Ranger and now every year I watch my father with pride as he marches in his uniform. I'm very fortunate to really understand the true meaning of Anzac day. 

"They shall not grow old, as we that are left grow old. Age shall not weary them, 'nor the years condemn. At the going down of the sun and in the morning, we will remember them."

Happy Anzac day... I hope everyone managed to get to a service to remember all those boys and men who fell for us. If you didn't manage to get to one- I hope at least a small thought was spared for them.

Cheery bye :)

Lest We Forget...